Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Convents and Ice Maidens

Monday 9 April 2012

This morning we headed off to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, 430 year old Dominican convent. There are around 20-30 nuns currently living in the convent in the new area where tourists aren’t allowed. The rest, which is most of it, is open to the public. It was only open to the public in 1970 when the mayor of Arequipa forced it to. The convent occupies an entire city block (approx. 20,000sqm), is surrounded by a big stone wall, and has three main cloisters, about half a dozen streets and lots of cells. The nun’s residences are referred to cells, but are 4 times bigger than your average hotel room. There is normally a main room which has a bed, desk, chair and space, then a bathroom and a kitchen. Life wasn’t that tough.

The convent was founded by a very rich widow in 1580 who only chose the best daughters from the best/richest Spanish families). On entering the convent the family had to pay up and then pay up again when the daughter took her vows. They were allowed to take with them in to the convent one to four servants or slaves amongst other things.

Over the past 400 years, parts of the convent have been rebuilt after the numerous earthquakes that are common in this part of the world. In around 1871 the Pope sent a strict Dominican nun to reform the convent and to straighten things out. The slaves were freed and given the option of remaining as nuns or leaving.

The place is stunning with the variety of cells, the coloured streets and the amazing stone work.









After the convent we had a quick wander through some artisan markets and then a visit to the City Hall Museum and Chiribaya Museum (had some cool trophy heads). This museum is set in a classical and beautiful old colonial building.

Then we had lunch and a sit down to rest the feet.

Then we headed off to the Museo Santuarios Andinos of the Universidad Catolica de Santa Maria. This is where ‘Juanita’, the famous ice princess/child resides. She is a young girl (11-12 years old) that was offered as a sacrifice to the gods 500 years ago. In 1995 when Johan Reinhard, mountaineer and archaeologist, climbed the volcano Ampato (6,310m), he found her. Nearby Volcano Sabancaya had been erupting and had caused the ice to thaw and dislodged her from her burial site. Although she is often referred to as a mummy, she isn’t as she was not embalmed and her internal organs haven’t been removed. Juanita is frozen (she’s not been thawed out!), and she still has skin, flesh, hair, fingernails and stomach contents.

The whole museum is climate controlled and houses the artefacts that were found with Juanita along with the shawl, belt, blanket and handkerchief (with snot on it) that have been removed from her. The museum also houses the artefacts and bodies of 18 sacrificial children found throughout the Andes. Juanita is not on display all the time and is rotated every 5-7 months with another ice child, as that is also way of preserving them. We didn’t get to see Juanita but the other girl (who’s name escapes me at the moment). She was around 18 years old and was seated in the lotus position to show fertility. She was still frozen (you could see the ice around the body) and you can see the skin, clothing, etc. Photos where not allowed, which is understandable.

After lunch we wandered around the city and found the former cloisters of the Iglesia de la Compania.



Back to the hotel for a rest, The Albatross has sore feet. Maybe he should try flying instead of walking tomorrow.

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